Sunday, May 13, 2012

Experiencing Grenada


Where to even begin! So much has happened since my last blog post yesterday to this point tonight. Last night half of the group decided that we wanted to go out and experience some Grenadian night life, so Mac (Police Superintendent) hooked us up with a ride to a local reggae concert. The place that we are staying right now is not very central to anywhere, so it was crucial that he provided transportation as well as a local connection. Mac picked us up at our hotel and we all piled in to his car (and by piled in, I mean four people squeezed in the back seat with a person laying across). I found it pretty comical that one of the head police officers was jamming our car full of people without even thinking twice, but it just goes to show how things are just that much different.

We arrived at the concert and Mac helped us get cheap tickets and got us right to the front of the line based on who he knew there. I could tell immediately that this island really is small; it’s all about who you know. We had only been there one day and we had people come up to us and say hello because we had met them elsewhere already. The concert was completely different than I would have expected. We walked down passed the seating area and onto the lawn right in front of the stage. We were so close and the lawn was perfectly spread of people so that everyone had enough room to move.

The first artist was a reggae musician whom Mac told me was a former police officer. It took a few minutes, but all of us quickly got into the atmosphere of the arena. It was unlike anything that I’ve experienced at a concert before; everyone was vibing with the music and the artist was preaching peace, love, and respect. In between artists there was even an MC who kept the crowd going. He would play songs and make everyone in the crowd dance, keeping the whole experience lively and exciting! We never stopped dancing the whole entire time and we had the time of our lives. Everything just felt so peaceful and it was a beautiful night out. I definitely think that I have a new appreciation for reggae music now that I know how people can really experience it, live it, and vibe with it. All of the artists were local, too, constantly shouting out to people in the crowd and demonstrating how small and connected the whole island really is.

Today was an even greater adventure, although I thought it would be impossible to top the amazing experience that I had yesterday. I’m beginning to see that this trip will be so much more than I could have ever dreamed, and I am so thankful I chose to do it. We started off the day by loading into a van and traveling to the Belmont Estate. Along the way I got to see a lot more of the country and am still under the impression that it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever experienced. I have been to the Caribbean before, but I have never experienced island life quite like this. Everyone waved to us and seemed so inviting, yet very curious. A lot of people want to know what we are doing on the island, and I think we are really trying to establish that we aren’t just tourists looking to get in quick and leave. The country was so beautiful with lush trees and the air is so pure and unpolluted. It really makes me stop to think about how we live sometimes in the US, so close together and in our own lives.

Once we arrived at the estate (comparable to a plantation) we learned that it used to employee many slaves to help grow and cultivate cocoa. We were shown one of the main trees with the slave bell which rung when a slave was to be hanged on the tree as punishment. It is so awful to think that things like that really happened. But, today the plant is still up and running producing some of the finest chocolate in the world, regardless of its history.

We were show the whole process of producing the chocolate, from chopping down the fruit, to fermenting and drying the beans, etc. It is such an elaborate process. Our tour guide, Lauren, let us try the beans before they get made into chocolate (very gross) as well as the seeds of the fruit when it is first picked off the tree (so sweet and delicious). Then we got to sample some of the chocolate ourselves which was absolutely amazing. We were then led around the estate to visit some of the animals, like monkeys and parrots. The parrot was probably my favorite because it actually was saying and repeating phrases that we were saying (something I’ve never seen before in my life). As I was walking around I was just breathing in the fresh air and closing my eyes to appreciate the opportunity to be in such an incredible place.

After the estate we traveled a bit down the road to see the slave pens where the slaves would live who were working on the estate. I think we were all a little unprepared for the hike that it required to even see the pens. We had to travel through high grasses, and a lot of us had flip flops and shorts on including me. I got bit really hard by something in the grass and had shooting pains for awhile and the pens themselves just did not interest me, so that part of the day wasn’t the greatest for me. But I did think it was really neat how anyone that wanted a mango could pick them off the trees at any point. There were really so many opportunities to eat mangos whenever we wanted, as well as other fruits like bananas, etc.

Then we traveled to Leaper’s Hill. Leaper’s Hill was known as the spot where the last standing Caribs decided to commit mass suicide by jumping off the cliff in order to avoid surrendering to the French. Peering down over the edge I couldn’t imagine choosing to end my life in that way, but I did think it was pretty noble of the Caribs to try to maintain some dignity in their deaths. Besides the sort of morbid history of the place, it was a beautiful view from the top. In the picture you can see my roommate Karla and I at the very top.

After Leaper’s Hill we finally made our way to the beach for the traditional “oil down.” We met up with the Tivoli drummers as well as many members of the community who were connected to the families. We spent some time mingling with locals and helping them prepare the dinner. A lot of them were really shy to talk to us, especially the younger ones. But, I think they were all very curious by our group. It seems that many of them were content with just sitting and “being,” living life. I realized that I didn’t always need to try to talk to them about something, as long as we were just coexisting near one another and sharing that space. It was a really cool and interesting experience. I talked to one girl in particular who was very outgoing, talking about how she teaches primary school children. I thought it was incredible that the children here are required to learn three languages! I still can’t believe that Americans only learn English when the rest of the world is really making an effort to be global.

While we were waiting for dinner to cook we went to the beach for a bit, and I got to dip my toes into the water. The water in Grenada is just so warm and the sand is free of debris, easy to walk around in. I laid on a chair for awhile, again breathing in sweet smell of the island and appreciating my time on the island. Once dinner was ready, it was delicious. There were so many people that they were feeding, but we each got a generous helping of things like chicken, curried bananas, bread fruit, and dumplings. The food again was extremely spiced and on top of that delicious. As it started to get dark we kept the bonfire going and we continued to mingle and enjoy the company of one another.

Thinking that the dinner would be the end of my night, I was shocked when the head Tivoli drummer summoned everyone to the arena across the street. At this point they started to play some drums and people from around the area came to join in. He had us stand in a circle, and told us that we were going to be experiencing a few local traditional games. I was so unsure what to expect, but before I knew it the sun was setting and there was a chorus of drums playing a beat. I would say there were close to 60-70 people at this time that either participated or watched as every single one of us was pulled one by one into the center to dance.

The first dance we had to do was to teach the rest of the group a dance move. I can’t even begin to tell you how embarrassed I was when it came time for me to go. I have never danced in front of other people before and the locals that were dancing were incredible. I was pretty proud of the move that I thought up while I was waiting for my turn, but then it just got even more difficult. The second dance was a slower rhythm, a tradition that they would do when someone died. I was shocked when I saw someone demonstrate..they were getting down low!! From my understanding it was supposed to be some sort of sexual dance, and I was completely terrified. At this point more and more people joined to watch what was going on and one by one people were getting in the middle and moving in ways that were sexual and impressive. I was mortified when I had to get in front of everyone and I tried to pathetically move my hips. I do give myself an A for effort, but it was pretty painful even for me. I was so amazed by how the locals could move, though. They were so fluid in their motions, and they moved so well with the beat. The third dance we had to do was supposed to be our final move to leave with the crowd, which again I probably made a fool of myself. I did just enjoy watching everyone else though; one girl jumped up and landed in a split, almost giving me a heart attack. Most of the Grenadian people are on such a different level when it comes to dancing I can’t even begin to imagine getting close to that.

Another long, exhausting, rewarding day. Thanks for reading!

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