One Love

Monday was a holiday in Grenada (Whit Monday) which meant that everything was closed down and there was nothing to do. So, most of the day was spent relaxing which was a nice break. But, yesterday was the first day of our steel pan lessons! If you don’t know what a steel pan is, think of the theme song of The Little Mermaid. It is the instrument that sounds very “Caribbean” in the background of many songs. I had never really picked up on the sound of that instrument until I heard it for the first time, but you can’t help but associate it with Caribbean islands.

We traveled as a group to downtown St. Georges at 10am and arrived at the steel pan yard to receive lessons from David Edwards. Right away he started to explain some of the basics of steel pans to us. One of the first things that we learned was that steel pans require knowledge of music so we would be learning how to read music and translate it to songs on the drum. From that I realized that it would be a little different than when we learned the hand drums from the Tivoli drummers, because with those we started playing right away. With the Tivoli drummers it was more about feeling the rhythm inside of you and playing what you feel, but with the steel pans we would need to learn notes and proper form. Mr. Edwards taught us how to “play” the drums instead of “beating” the drums, as he put it. It wasn’t about how loud we could bang the mallets against the steel but rather about playing it correctly with our wrists as our guides. We had to do wrist exercises to help warm up and strengthen our wrists before we began. Then we practiced holding the sticks and “rolling” different notes or “picking” them (two different techniques that required either strumming the note with both hands back and forth or just playing the note once with one hand).

Mr. Edwards also explained each of the different types of steel pan drums. Each drum was made in a very delicate way which involved softening the metal and molding it in a way that made each note sound perfect. Then a conch shell was used to separate each of the notes in the pans so that they didn’t run together. There were in total six different types of steel pan drums that we would have to choose from. From the ones I remember, there was the single tenor which played the main melody of the song. It was the highest and most distinct drum that was meant to be the loudest. It consisted of only one drum (the smallest of all of them) with tiny sticks to play the small notes. Then there was the double tenor which completed the harmony with the single tenor. It used two drums and was a little lower in pitch than the single tenor and was a little bigger. There was also the guitar drum, also using two drums, which played chords like you would imagine a regular guitar would play in a band. The last I can fully remember is the bass drum which obviously played the low background bass in the group. The bass was the most difficult and the drummer had to have long arms because it consisted of six different large standing drums. The mallets had large rubber balls at the end of them that played soft, low notes. The bass required a lot of coordination, so clearly that was not the one I was going to choose.

I decided to try the double tenor since the single tenor already had six people on it. It was only Asia and I on the double tenor, and I was ready for the challenge of two drums. It proved to be very difficult too! Our first lesson was to learn how to play the C scale with all natural notes (i.e., no flat or sharp notes). It was so much harder trying to go from one pan to the next quickly while also learning how to tap my foot. A lot of us were struggling to multi-task between the two, but eventually by the end we could play the scale at a really fast tempo. I felt very accomplished by the end of the two hour session when I could play quickly without even looking. At one point he had us close our eyes and play without looking, and I was able to pass the test.

Something that I noticed while playing was that the Grenadian people are not shy to stop by and walk right into the steel pan practice room to blatantly stare at us. I saw a lot of confused faces by people who would peer inside and just take pictures of us. And of course I was the first person next to the door, so now I am in a lot of pictures playing my drum. So, although we are not looked at as completely alien people like we were in Grenville, it must still be a completely strange site to see American students learning how to play the steel pans.

After the session yesterday, a few people from the group and I decided to do some shopping. While we thought that the shopping would be really cheap on the island, like everything else has been, we were completely wrong. We couldn’t find shirts or dresses for less than 95 EC (or $40 American), and everyone was trying to rip us off because they saw us as tourists. We were right in the area where most of the cruise ships dock when they come to Grenada, so we were just lumped together with all of the other Americans that come to the island for vacation. It was a little disappointing for awhile until we found the local market and a really nice souvenir shop. One man came up to Maggie, Drew, and I and was trying to sell us necklaces and other jewelry. He showed us this necklace that he was known for which had lots of spices and herbs on it. It basically smelled like Christmas. His whole pitch was just ridiculous, because it was one of the ugliest things I’ve ever seen, but he was trying to make it sound like I would want to wear it around. He said if I bought it from him and wore it I would be known as the Spice Girl. The guy was just trying so hard to sell it to me that eventually I caved in and just bought it because it was just so ridiculous. So, now I have a necklace with spices that I will never wear, but at least it smells good.

Today was our second trip to the steel pan yard. When we got inside, we all went right to our instruments from the first day and started re-learning the C-scale. After a bit we could play it very fast and well enough to move onto our next lesson. Mr. Edwards then taught us the whole C-scale including the flat and sharp notes in between, which added an extra challenge to an already difficult task. I had to remember which notes were on which pans and remember exactly which order they went in. He had us practice it so many times that I feel like I can play it in my sleep. More people came in to watch off the streets and it was a very similar experience that we had yesterday but just a bit harder with the extra notes. Below is a video of me attempting to play the full scale.

At the very end of the session, Mr. Edwards surprised us by asking what song we wanted to learn how to play. We all came to the consensus that we wanted to learn how to play “One Love” by Bob Marley. He went around to each drum teaching them different parts of the song. Each drum wouldn’t be playing the same notes. We were taught different things that all together would sound like the song. Once Asia and I started learning our parts I realized why it was so important to learn the scales and know where all the notes were, because it made for a faster learning curve and increased understanding of what was going on. Once we finally got to play as a group, it sounded so great! We did so well and Mr. Edwards even jumped on the real drum set and started jamming out to the song. It was a great learning experience and I really look forward to the next few days as we attempt harder compositions.

After the lesson, Kassie and I went to another library (The University of the West Indes' Open Campus Library) and attempted to research more information on our topic. With no success, we have come to the realization that there really are little to no written records of drumming culture in Grenada. It is exciting to think that we will be one of the first ever groups to record information that we find out about the drums as an instrument that influences culture. It just goes to show how important our work actually is and puts some value on the project we are doing. We have already encountered people who are thankful that we have come to their island to finally document and record their cultural history. 

Dirty Dancing

Thinking about yesterday makes me actually laugh; it was a very ridiculous day. All that we were told was that we had to meet at 11am to visit dance master David Thomas in Gouyave. So, like every other person we’ve met, I assumed he would be talking about dance in Grenada, we would ask him questions, etc etc. Never in the description for the day was anyone told that any physical dancing would be taking place. So, I wore a nice light and airy short sundress ready to face the hot and humid day ahead. Little did I know I would soon regret that decision enormously.

We met Urias at our apartments and he took us into the center of St. Georges where all of the nice shopping is and the bus depot. I loved the downtown area! It was so alive and busy with people, more of a city feel that I would expect. I was pretty interested in the street vendors who would put up pictures of movie covers. A lot more people than I expected would stop to choose which movie they wanted to buy. It reminded me almost of the black market in America but more exposed. It made me wonder if there are actually places in Grenada for the people to buy movies or if they relied on these street vendors. I was also shocked to hear that one of the buildings downtown which looked destroyed actually stood as remains of Hurricane Ivan all the way back in 2004. We have been hearing a lot about the destruction that the Hurricane caused, and it is so sad to imagine what it must have been like. Urias’ daughter, Z, told us how she was in Miami at the time of the Hurricane and came back to see the island just destroyed. It must have been devastating. They didn’t have school or power for weeks. She was explaining how she never appreciated things like ice so much in her life, because they were living without power or AC for such a long period of time. Just seeing the building still standing untouched was very eerie and sad.

After spending time downtown we caught a bus to go to Gouyave. I didn’t know it at the time but the town is actually all the way up in the northern parish of St. John. The bus ride took a very long time, winding along roads that were on cliffs overlooking the ocean. It was a beautiful and lengthy drive which eventually led us to a tiny town very similar to Grenville. It had a small feel to it that we have grown accustomed to in the country. We turned down a small neighborhood street and then Mr. Thomas led us around the back of a house where we saw the sign for the “Spices Dance Company.” Right when I saw this sign, I got a bad feeling. We walked inside right into the middle of a small dance studio with large wall mirrors and ballet bar. Mr. Thomas introduced his studio and one of his senior dancers who was to lead the session. Then, he slowly moved to the side and let her speak.

We were told right away that we would be having a dance session to learn traditional dances that they have been working on over the last year. So, not only were we going to be intensely learning dances, but the session would last 4-5 hours! I was so unprepared for what was about to happen and the room was incredibly hot, but I tried to listen as she explained each dance. The first dance that we did involved only the women and had many African retentions in it, called bele. We learned that it was a dance done by slave women who would flirt with the drummers. We had to make sure to use our hips, something I’ve never had to work on in my life, and she taught us the moves in a lighting fast pace. Not only did I look ridiculous trying, but I was wearing one of the worst outfits I could have worn that particular day. It was heavy and thick, not even close to anything someone should wear while dancing. But, I did really enjoy learning the traditional dances. It was a fun way to get involved even if I was completely ill dressed for the day like everyone else in the group.

The next dance was done by the guys to show off their masculinity. It consisted of a lot of stomping, running in circles, and kicking. After they got their turn in the spotlight, Nathan was chosen to participate in calinder, or the stick fighting dance we have learned about before. He went toe to toe with the other dancer in a stick match, which was really entertaining for everyone to watch. Not only did it show off a guy’s masculinity, but it was so fluid and graceful.

The final dance we learned was pique, something I’m very familiar with at this point because it involves dancing in sexual ways to symbolize rebirth after a death. This is always the one I dread because I look very stiff compared to what some people do, but luckily this time it was very structured and fun. We were paired up, boy to girl, and were taught the dance with our partners. Unfortunately because I was wearing a dress there were some moves I couldn’t do, but at the same time I was not complaining. One of them involved jumping on the guy and leaning the head back to the floor, legs wrapped around them, while they spun in circles. It was more fun to watch other people attempt the move.

By the end of the session we were all exhausted, sweaty, and ready to go home. None of us woke up yesterday thinking that our day would be filled with intense dancing, so to think that we ended up doing all of that makes it all too funny to think about. Once we got back, there was no energy left for anything else. Many of our nights were spent relaxing back at the apartments and going to bed early.

Today was another beach day since we had the day off from work. Maggie, Karla, and I headed to the beach and enjoyed another sunny day. At one point Maggie and I decided to walk all the way down the beach to the other side just for fun. What we didn’t realize is that we must have walked into the area of the beach where all of the locals hung out, because we once again stood out. We could feel everyone’s eyes on us, watching and trying to figure out what we were doing. One guy showed us the spice and craft booths that were set up for the cruise ships that will be coming to the island in two months. Only one of them had their crafts set up, and he showed us his necklaces and jewelry. Maggie and I were really impressed when he was explaining each one how he made them by hand with remnants from Hurricane Ivan, etc. Ironically, when we went back to our chairs to get money to buy some another guy came over to try to sell necklaces to us that looked exactly the same. He was saying how he made his own himself, etc. There was no connection between the two men. Luckily we didn’t get scammed by the first guy into buying a necklace that he clearly didn’t make himself if another random guy had the same exact ones.

Another observation that we made was that the children that we met while swimming are very similar to how we were as American children. The Grenadian children were so friendly and started playing games with us. Maggie and I were both talking about how the games resembled things that we would make up when we were younger, which made us laugh at the similarities and imaginations of children all around the world. The water felt so nice today, like swimming in a hot tub. I never wanted to get out.

Now that we’re back we can have some more time to relax and work on our group proposal a little more. Our group has decided to focus our research on drumming’s influence on Grenadian culture in the 21^st century, which is so exciting to finally say since we’ve been going back and forth so much. Over the never week we will be conducting a few more interviews then finally getting to the point where we can write our final papers. Only two more weeks on this beautiful island; it makes me so sad to think about leaving. 

Black Wizard

Today we had to wake up very early to go visit St. Georges University. Apparently Dr. B is trying to set up an affiliation between St. Georges University and Northeastern University, so we will have access while we are here to all of their facilities and services that students have access to. We met our contact, Wendy, today who showed us around campus. When I first heard about the school I wasn’t sure what to make of it. It is a really popular school for Americans to come for medicine, but I wasn’t expecting it to look so nice and groomed. The campus was beautiful, surrounded on both sides by water and beautiful views. It reminded me of a very nice college you would find in America, which for some reason surprised me a little to find on such a small random island. The place was crawling with Americans, something I haven’t really experienced since being on the island, so I felt weirdly at home.

We saw things like the gym, restaurant, student center, etc that we can use. We also have access to the free bus system with our IDs that we received, which will be very convenient for when we want to go into different parts of town. We got to see the room where our final presentations will take place and then we sat down to talk to Wendy about a few things. She told us again about the history of Grenada and also about different cultural traditions. She discussed “island time” where relationships are more valuable than money. Grenadians are never in a hurry and always will stop to talk to someone even if they are running late. It’s funny because I experienced that in Italy but definitely not to the extent that it happens here. I even find myself just being so laid back about the time which would never happen in America. I always know what time it is back home, so to have no concept of time is a very bizarre and new feeling.

After our tour to SGU (St. Georges University), a few people took the free bus to go to the supermarket to stock up on food in an attempt to save money. It felt good to buy things like chicken and pasta so that I can start to cook my own meals again. The prices here are very expensive, maybe even more than back home, but I figured it would be cheaper to try to make food rather than eat out all the time. When we tried to catch a cab back, we noticed that the cab drivers were really trying to rip us off and charge us absurd amounts to go five seconds down the road. I really do feel like people will try to take advantage of us here in St. Georges just because it is so touristy and they assume we have a lot of money. I’ve already experienced it a few times and I already don’t like how rude some people are here; it’s very disheartening.

We unloaded our groceries and relaxed for a bit, working on some homework, etc. Then we all had to meet before traveling to the “Black Wizard.” At this point in our trip I never really have any clue what is going on because the schedule is constantly changing, so again I started walking with the group to see this “wizard” without a clue of what to expect. We didn’t have to walk too far before we were all invited into a small, hot room with tiny chairs and a small chalkboard in the front. In the front of the room stood a tall black man who looked older by his graying hair but youthful in spirit. He welcomed us into his classroom and introduced himself as the Black Wizard, or master calypsonian on the island.

Black Wizard gave us some history of calypso music, including how the word came about from a mix of French words. I learned that soca music is more of a contemporary, more upbeat version of calypso that many young Grenadians like better because of the faster rhythm. But he also reinforced the various tricks that calypsonians would use in their music. It is not okay to publically sing songs that went against the government, so calypso music would be full of “double entendras” or double meanings. They had to be masters of creativity and language to devise phrases that were clever and had meanings that subtly commented on political issues. Calypso music is also very strongly tied to Carnivale, because that is when the country expects to hear all of the new calypso songs premiere. So, around the end of August, there will be multiple new calypso songs to add to Grenada’s collection. Black Wizard, who has won Grenada’s calypso competition many years, even sang a few of his own songs, which was really impressive to watch. He sang for us while school children ran around outside the window, and I felt like I was actually in a neighborhood for the first time since being in St. Georges.

The session ended and as we were walking back it started to pour so we ran through the rain to our apartments.

Today was one of my favorite days while being in Grenada so far. We actually had nothing at all planned for the day, so Karla and I slept in late and then met up with everyone to go to the beach around noon. The weather was absolutely perfectly sunny outside. The beach (Grand Anse) is only a ten minute walk from our apartment and is known to be one of the prettiest beaches in the Caribbean! It definitely lived up to those standards. We got some chairs and laid out by the water, going in every once in awhile to cool off when it got too warm. The sand was beautiful, soft with no rocks or any debris, and the water was turquoise crystal clear and warm. There were barely any other people on the beach too! This island as a whole is so unspoiled by tourism that it’s actually refreshing. We were even right next to a resort, but still no one was really by the water. It felt like we had the whole beach all to ourselves.

After spending a few hours and starting my tan for the first time, Karla and I got a bite to eat and then headed back to the apartment. Now it’s just time to relax before we go out for the night. Happy weekend everyone! Thanks for reading.

Saint George's!

Yesterday was not too exciting, just a combination of our last real day of classes and packing to leave Grenville for good. We took the time to say our last reflections about our time in Grenville, which was a little sad. I talked about the woman that I had met one day downtown who was so happy and was telling me about what she likes to do for fun. She was talking about how Grenadians don’t have much money but they know how to have fun. She loved to spend time with her family and do things like go to the beach or just have huge oil-down dinners. It really made me reflect on us as Americans. We are a culture that needs material things and a surplus of objects and wealth in order to be satisfied. Happiness should come from those around you who love you. It was a very eye-opening lesson in an unexpected place.

We went down to town one last time to get some food at the Melting Pot and looked out at the ocean. We were told that things were going to be more expensive in St. George’s so we enjoyed our last very cheap meal. Then I headed back up to sleep one more time in the mosquito-fest which was my room. Got a few new, fresh bites on my legs just as a parting gift I want to believe.

Today we woke up and brought our bags downstairs to finally say goodbye to Rainbow Inn, Grenville, to depart towards the big city (St. Georges). The thought alone of leaving behind our AC-less, mosquito-infested room was motivation enough for me to want to run out of there. We said goodbye to all of the Inn staff that we had grown close with over our stay there and we hopped into the van. Like we had done many times before, we drove through the rain forest in order to get to St. Georges, which was an adventure in itself. The drive is around 45 minutes and the roads are extremely narrow without lines. I swear I thought that we were going to crash a few times, but somehow we made it in one piece. Along the way we stopped at a lake at the top of one of the highest mountains in Grenada. It was a volcanic lake, and our bus driver explained how Grenada was a volcanic island with only one active volcano left. The lake was kind of eerie since the fog was rolling in, so we only got a chance to admire it for a little while before another downpour started.

As we got into St. Georges we made a stop at the Spice Basket restaurant which we had visited our first night in Grenada. Ironically, though, we weren’t there to dance or eat but rather to visit a museum that was part of the same complex. We had a tour guide take us around and explain the history of Grenada (which we’ve heard a few times at this point). I feel like I’m an expert now. Basically the British and the French fought over the island for awhile which is why there are so many French influences on the island, but eventually the British took over for the majority of the history. Then, they gained their independence in the 1970’s and there was a Revolution shortly after followed by the American Invasion. Ever since the Revolution they have had a parliamentary government in Grenada. The tour guide also showed us some old artifacts from ancient Grenada and a lot of pictures of Grenada’s history with the game of cricket. Because they were owned by Britain for so long, they have a very strong, rich history with the game of cricket. I heard that during the Revolution, the tough times led to more emphasis on work ethic, building stronger and more athletic men. Because of this hard-working mentality, Grenada had a very good cricket team for awhile during those times which directly reflected the economy and hardships at the time.

After the museum, we had planned to go visit a few forts but it was pouring and everyone was pretty hungry so we checked into our hotel. In the video you can see a little sneak peek of our room here. Karla and I are very excited that we now have working AC and internet. There are definitely less mosquitoes and the whole place is just cleaner (except for the four spiders that we had Vlad kill behind my bed and one that crawled into bed with me). A funny thing that also revolved around bugs was when we were running late for our meeting at 2:30, I noticed a huge centipede in the middle of our floor. When I went to look at it closer, it was dead so I left it there thinking I could come back and clean it up afterwards. EXCEPT, when we got back an hour later, it was GONE. We weren’t able to find it anywhere, so somewhere in our room is a giant centipede that knows how to play dead. Lesson learned: Don’t trust bugs.

We had Urias’ daughter, Z, take us to get some food nearby (only a 5 minute walk). I already have been noticing a lot of differences between Grenville and St. Georges. For one, there are actually street lights and lines on the roads. It’s a lot busier and there is a ton of diversity. We are no longer looked at as if we are specimens (one little girl yesterday pointed to us and shouted to her mom, “Hey look white people!”). We actually blend it pretty nicely here, which I’m not so sure I liked as much as I thought I would. Everyone treats us as if we are just tourists who have a lot of money. Another thing is that people are a little less friendly here. I tried saying hello to a few people on the street today and they actually looked kind of surprised and shy about it. It’s so different than what I got used to doing in Grenville where everyone knew one another and was friendly. This is a city, though, and there are lots of food places and things to do around the area which makes it a little more fun. But there is already a part of me that misses the country and the people who were so welcoming to us. 

One of the biggest things I’ve noticed about St. Georges is the prices. Everything here is so much more expensive. I got a great lunch but spent a lot of money, so tomorrow I need to make sure to go to the grocery store to get some food otherwise I will have no more money soon. After lunch we had some downtime so we took a nap and now I am just sitting on our porch watching the sun set over the beach. We’re right next to a main road so it’s a little loud, but the site is just beautiful of the water. 

Hiking to Mt. Carmel Waterfall

Today started off with a first-time experience today, hiking to a waterfall. In the morning we had our favorite bus driver, John, pick us up at the Inn and we met Urias at the beginning of the hike to Mt. Carmel Falls. It was only about a ten minute hike through the rainforest before we got our first glimpse at the beautiful falls. Half of the group decided to hike up a very steep part to get to the top, but the rest of us didn’t waste any time going right to the waterfall itself since it was so hot out. Once we made our way over the slippery rocks, we reached the part underneath the falls where we could sit and enjoy the stream of water comfortably. We sat there for awhile and I just breathed in and enjoyed the beauty of nature. Grenada is such a spectacularly gorgeous island, and it felt so real to come to a spot where few tourists would ever think to visit. We haven’t even gotten close to the touristy area of the island yet (we will on Wednesday when we go to St. George). I think we’ve all come to appreciate city life because it has been a bit of an adjustment to live here in the countryside. The nearest market is quite the hike and there really isn’t anything within walking distance for us to do nearby.

After we enjoyed the waterfall for awhile, we hiked back up to the van and got driven back. A few hours later we did have to meet back for class. Today we discussed rapport, which is an interesting topic because it’s something that is completely intangible sometimes. It’s not always an easy formula to develop rapport with our potential interviewees and sometimes they expect us to pay them when we don’t have money to. We haven’t encountered any problems just yet but next once we get to St. George we will be in full research mode. Some of these issues may really affect us and our research.

After class we got picked up again and traveled to a village past Tivoli to see a Shortknee performance. Once we had seen the JabJab performance, I was expecting another similar show where it would be in the community and unofficial, and my assumptions were not off point. We drove again to the middle of a local village and were dropped off in an area that seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. Everyone in the nearby houses, including all the children, were waiting for us, and we watched as a small clan of one Shortknee group performed on the street. We were told that the Shortknee performers come out during Carnivale, clad in bright outfits with long poofy sleeves and pants that fall right below the knee (hence the name). They often sang songs that would have something to do with current events or their African heritage. One of the first they sang dealt with the current unhappiness with the prime minister. We witnessed that ourselves when we walked into town yesterday and saw a protest. Many people are unhappy with the current prime minister, and the Shortknee took it upon themselves to make a song to address those feelings of resentment. They were a really interesting group with a lot of energy.

Once the Shortknee performance ended we came back and had some time for ourselves. Manni, Drew, and I decided to go down to town to get some dinner (I am getting quite bored of the ramen and soup that I brought from home). As we were walking down we decided to try to switch things up and try out somewhere different. We found a little Chinese food place which looked pretty decent, so we just went for it. Luckily the food was absolutely amazing. It was also the first time we have encountered Asians in the Caribbean. We got a kick out of the fact that we were at a Chinese restaurant in the Caribbean as Americans. It was a pretty funny situation. But we had a great, delicious meal with food none of us have eaten in awhile. On our way back we even felt ambitious enough to stop for ice cream at another place, which wasn’t as successful because the chocolate I ate tasted very strange. But we strolled back saying “goodnight” to everyone we saw. It’s been weird getting used to saying hello to everyone you pass on the street, but maybe even weirder is the fact that people here say “goodnight” in the same way that we would say “good evening.” Small culture things that I’m started to become accustomed to.

On that note, “goodnight” everyone and thanks for reading J

Lazy Sunday

This weekend has been nice because we finally got some down time. Yesterday morning we had a champion kaiso singer (known on the island as “Scholar”) come in to talk about his work in Grenada. He began the session by discussing how he became a singer, first starting by dancing with the Shortknees. From my understanding Shortknee is a masquerade group that dresses up during Carinavale. He brought the outfit for us to show how they dress up and dance during the festival, which was very bright and had long poofy sleeves which held weapons (for feuds). On Monday we are actually going to visit the Shortknees so I’m sure I’ll have a better understanding of who they are once I can actually see what they do. Then Scholar talked about some of the origins of kaiso music and the modern influences, etc. He was really insightful and very well-spoken, and he even agreed to let our group watch him record a song in the studio sometime in the next few weeks!

Shortly after Scholar’s presentation we were picked up and brought to river tubing. Almost everyone came and it was a lot different than any of us had expected but a ton of fun. I assumed it would just kind of be like a nice relaxing river ride where we would hit a few patches of rough current. We each got our own tube and were placed in the river. Immediately we were whisked away by the water and were brought through a few rapids. I was so shocked! It was like one of those river rafting rides you would go on at amusement parks but the real thing. The river wound through the rainforest and the trip lasted about an hour. We had a few guides helping us out when we would get stuck or making sure we got through the rough parts smoothly. It was also up to us to help one another get un-stuck off of rocks and river banks, so the trip served as kind of a team building experience as well. 

At one point they had us all get off the tubes and swim over to a large rock. We were allowed to climb up and jump off (15 feet) if we wanted. At first I was so scared to do it so I just watched. Then I realized that I might regret not jumping, so I got in line and made my way up the rocks. In order to get to the point where we jumped I had to walk on a skinny ledge of slippery rocks which was so terrifying. Then the guy told me to make sure not to hit the rock jutting out from the one I was jumping off of on my way down, which made me even more scared. But I just did it without thinking and it was so much fun! I’m so glad I decided to try it because it was worth the nerves.

After river tubing we had a few hours of downtime and then a few of us decided to go to this show we had heard of called Grenada’s Got Talent. I thought that it would be similar to the reggae concert that we went to the other night, but I couldn’t be more wrong. We made a huge effort to get a taxi van to take us all the way to St. Georges (45 minute drive), and we had to pay a bit of money to get in, only to find out that it was a sit down, high-school like competition. None of us could believe we drove all that way just to see a show that was pretty mediocre. I was trying to make the most of it but at some points I was just bored out of my mind. And, the stage production was terrible. At a few points they accidentally left someone’s computer screen up as the background to the singers, which was horrifying. There were a few really impressive acts, but overall I think we were disappointed that we got our hopes up so much.

Today we have NOTHING planned for once. I can’t even believe it. We’ve all just been so lazy, working on homework and blogs and things like that. It’s been a great day where not a single thing has been planned (and I don’t care in the least bit). Right now I’m sitting out on my porch watching cars go by, looking out at the mountains, and listening to some reggae coming from a nearby porch. Life is good. 

JabJab

Yesterday was a busy day, as always. We started off the day with class again and then walked down to try to go to the market again (like we have tried to go the past few days). But, once again, we never made our way there because lunch took a little longer than expected. A group of us stopped at “Good Food” along the way to get what they called “roti.” The roti was a bread wrap with chicken and potatoes in it. I’m not going to lie, I’m getting a little tired of eating curried chicken and starches, but it was very delicious paired with a cup of fresh passion fruit juice. The only thing that was a little strange was that the chicken was still on the bone, but it was in the middle of the wrap. So while I was eating I had to take out chicken wings and eat it which was pretty bizarre to me. We didn’t have enough time to go to the market again so we just went back to the Inn and departed to visit a spice manufacturer right down the road.

We walked a few minutes the opposite way from town and were brought into a nice, air-conditioned room (a very rare experience in itself). The same man that had come to talk to us the first day of class, known as Cakes, met us to talk to us about his organic medical product line that he produces here in Grenada. He showed us his most popular item, called Nut-Med, which is a natural substance made of netmeg and other local products used to relieve pain (kind of like icy-hot). He really stressed the importance of the local ingredients in his products and how Grenada is full of herbs and plants that provide natural cures to medical issues. I was a little skeptical at first, but at the end of the session I had someone spray some of the Nut-Med on my lower back which has been bothering me since being here. I could actually feel the muscles in my back relaxing and it was almost like a tingly sensation. I can now say that I am more of a believer that natural ingredients can cure things that are synthetically produced in countries like the US.

To add on to his product line, he also talked about a variety of other natural ingredients that anyone can use to cure things such as strokes, cancers, and gallstones. He told us how just putting a cluster of nutmeg under a stroke victims tongue will help relieve their symptoms; the natural oils released from the nutmeg will clear blockages from the brain. I was blown away by some of the research he was explaining that proved that his natural remedies actually had some merit which is why his products are now available worldwide. I think we were all wondering why natural cures for things like cancers wouldn’t make huge headline news in the US, but he told us that most of the big pharmaceutical companies would never want to hear that natural cures are possible. They would lose a lot of money if they discovered that anyone could have access to these cures. I’m sure there is more to the story than his perspective, but to think that this might have a bit of truth is really disheartening and just sad that we would sacrifice human lives just for profit.

After leaving Cakes, we walked back to the Inn and got ready for the night. We were picked up in the van by Krumah and first brought up to an old plantation to admire some of the scenery of Grenada. We stopped to take in the landscape of a gorgeous lake called Lake Eerie (not to be confused with the one in America) and to admire the ocean from up top. Krumah led us to find some mangos, which were so delicious and fresh. I still find it to be crazy that at any time we can instantly pick fruit right from the tree to eat.

Our next stop was to the Rivers Rum company. Rivers is a type of rum that is unique to Grenada. We have all tried it at one point and it’s known to be extremely strong (about 70% alcohol) but it magically never gives you a hangover (or so they say). Right when we pulled up to the place it smelled very strongly of alcohol. The plant was really not close to many things nearby, but was hundreds of years old. Grenadians take great pride in their Rivers Rum so we were all excited to see how they produced it. We had a tour guide take us around the plant to explain the various processes. They had the oldest working water-run mill there, and we saw how sugar canes were smashed and natural sugar was extracted that helped organically sweeten the rum. He even let us all try a piece of the sugar cane which surprisingly wasn’t as yummy as I would have imagined. There were huge vats of bubbling and fermenting alcohol kept in large, open baths. I was a little surprised to see that they weren’t as clean as a liquor company would be in America, which is probably why they would never be able to sell their rum in the States just based on health codes.

Then we go back in the truck and were driven to another scenic place near the ocean. We took some time to stop and walk along the rocks and take pictures. We stayed there until it started to downpour, a very common thing here. Apparently we are in the rainy season right now so at any given time there will be a heavy downpour for about 5 minutes before it gets sunny again.

After staying at the beach for awhile we were transported to the Tamboo Bamboo session. At one point in Grenada’s history drums were actually outlawed because they were associated with crime. So, much like how the Americans found a way around Prohibition, the Grenadian’s way of dealing with the situation had to do with taking large stalks of bamboo and slamming them against the ground to sound like drums. We drove up a large hill into someone’s back yard and were greeted by a group of young and old Grenadians who had different sized bamboo sticks. There was even the founder there who was a woman around 90 years old, still playing! We watched them perform a few songs for the crowd while other people in the neighborhood joined in to watch as well. I was so impressed by the sound that the bamboo stalks made against the ground; they actually sounded like drums. It was so creative and the rhythms sounded very similar to ones we heard at Tivoli.

After a few songs we stopped to ask questions and a little girl came over to say hello to me. She grabbed Karla and I by the hands and led us to a pack of children off to the side. Karla and I decided to form a little dance circle with all of the kids, inviting them to go into the circle to dance. It’s funny how even small children pick up the dance culture so quickly here. They were not shy at all to get in the middle and were absolutely adorable (except for the one who kept slapping me). I think that it was really the first time we interacted with the locals to a really large extent. Girls that were older came and talked to us as well, so it was exciting to dance and laugh with Grenadians in a more laid-back and impromptu setting.

As we left, a few of the girls were really sad to see us go and the boys ran after our truck, clinging on to the back for awhile. Eventually they let go and we made our way to the evening “lime” or “happy hour” in Grenadian lingo. We actually returned to the site, Moon Light City, where the reggae concert was at a week ago. It was a nice time to relax and just dance to the music with everyone in our group. We also got to meet a few locals who taught us a few moves (although I have to say, my dancing is getting pretty awesome by this point). It was a great social event that wrapped up our long and busy day.

Today we had more class and then Cassie and I decided to go on a little adventure during lunch. A few people had expressed interest in going river tubing while we are in Grenville, so I took the initiative to try to plan the trip for our group. We had heard that it was only five minutes down the street, so we started walking the direction we thought it was; however, we quickly realized that we would have to ask for directions. Two women told us that we would need to take a bus to get there so we just agreed and followed what they said. We got on a bus and were dropped off five minutes down the road to a little shack with a small sign indicating that it was river tubing. I talked with the guy for a little, and long story short I was able to successfully plan a river tubing trip for tomorrow morning! We even figured out how to catch the bus back, which I was pretty proud of, and I happily sat next to five crates of mangos the whole time.

Once we returned, Urias came to visit us to share some of his story-telling skills. We all sat in a circle and he began the session with a few exercises like telephone and making up a story as you go along. It was a really fun way to get into the experience and then he dove right into the story-telling itself. We all were captivated by the way that he was speaking. I realized that it’s been awhile since someone told me a story in that way. It brought me back to my childhood. Urias explained that he wanted to try to keep the oral tradition alive with his story-telling, but children in Grenada these days would much rather sit and watch TV. It’s very sad to think that even in a country like Grenada which seems to have a very strong culture, the children are still getting lazy and becoming less interested in cultural tradition. We’ve actually heard this from a number of people on the island.

After the story telling session we changed and met the van to travel to the JabJab session. I don’t think any of us were really aware of what exactly JabJab was so we went into it with an open mind. Once we were off the bus we realized we were again in the middle of a village where a few older men were in the process of rubbing black paint onto one another. We stood as a group and watched in curiosity at these men who were starting to sport ridiculous props like live snakes and bottles lit on fire. The whole community was around watching us, some even taking videos of us as if we were the tourist attraction. It made me feel uncomfortable at times and made me think twice about what it might be like for them when we take pictures of them without their consent. Once the men were all in costume and completely black in paint, they paraded around the street with drums and conch shells, singing and chanting. They stopped for awhile and danced a bit and soon after they began to tell raunchy jokes in their songs.

To see a video of their performance: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJOIHMd_pXQ&feature=youtu.be

We learned that the JabJab group is one masquerade group that dresses in black paint as a symbol of resistance to slave owners. They felt like if they were to be discriminated against based on their skin then they might as well go all the way and become black as night. Groups like this were used to start rebellion in times when there was discrimination, so the concept of the group was deeply rooted in history. At the end of their performance they let some of us try out the drums and make up our own jokes to be part of their act if we wanted. All in all it was a very unique experience that provided just a little more insight into Grenadian culture and history.

Saying Goodbye to the Tivoli Drummers

Yesterday was similar to our itinerary on Monday. We had class at 9am with Dr. B discussing fieldwork techniques. It was a very interesting point that our presence alone will always affect the environment in some way. The people we are recording and their actions will somehow be altered with us conducting research, different from what they may do when no one is watching. We also learned about a basic framework for field research which includes preparation, collection, and analysis. I thought the framework was really easy to use and understand and it is very similar to the one that we would use in my consultation course.

After taking a break for lunch, Urias and his wife Ann joined our class to share some myths and folk stories from Grenada. I loved the way that Ann walked; she was so captivating and lively with her words which made everyone want to listen and hear what she had to say. She started off by discussing medical myths from Grenada such as curing asthma by having the child drink coconut milk with the adrenaline from a struggling lizard. She had a very interesting perspective on the myths seeing as she was a nurse and is now working in the Ministry of Health in Grenada. Apparently these myths are not just folk stories, people still believe them today. She then shared with us some insight she had on death and funerals in Grenada. While in the US funerals are more a time of sadness and grief, in Grenada it is a combination of grief and joy. Songs are sung that either provoke a mass feeling of sadness or a joyful celebration of the person’s life. And families that could not afford to freeze the body in ice would have to have it buried by the next day. We also learned about how when someone would die, people would run around the town to get people to wake up and support the family. They would send someone to go around yelling of the person’s death and everyone would flock to the house to help the family, showing a clear sense of community in this country.

After Ann’s session we all took a nap and some of us went down to town again to get a bite to eat. We ran into our new friend, Fish, who hangs out outside of the supermarket and he told us of another great restaurant to go for dinner. We had to go around the back through an alley to get to the restaurant and ended up in a small place. We all ordered (spicy chicken, rice and beans, bananas, salad, vegetables, sweet potato, green beans) and we just took a moment to relax. We were served some fresh fruit juice made of passion fruit which was absolutely delicious and so satisfying and then we headed to the buses to go to Tivoli again.

At Tivoli we were greeted by all of the Tivoli drummers this time. They put on a rehearsal show for all of us which was so entertaining. They did different acts which involved drums and dancing. My favorite was one dance that simulated fighting, illustrating Grenada’s violent past. The other day Urias had mentioned that Grenada is one of the most peaceful places you will ever find, but it ironically has a very violent past. The dancers were so intense dancing with fake guns to the heavy, loud beat of the drums. Our group sat amongst locals who stopped who stopped to watch out of curiosity. The children got such a kick out of watching some of the people in our group get on the stage and dance for everyone. It’s so sweet to really feel the community vibe that was coming from everyone present. I loved the performance! Below are some clips from the performance.

Afterwards a few of us relaxed on the porch while Nathan played guitar on a beautiful night. I actually sang a bit, which I usually never do in front of other people. I guess this trip is really bringing out the musical side of me more than I thought it would.

Today we woke up again for class 9-12 where we discussed some more methods of fieldwork and addressed a few issues regarding ethics and morals. We learned a lot about how we need to make sure to establish a relationship with a person before we ask to interview them. As students we need to prove our credibility and show that we aren’t just here in the island to steal the music and leave to make a profit. It’ll require a lot more time and preparation than I would have imagined in order to get the results we want for our final research project.

In the afternoon we had a former primary school music teacher come up named Lauren who spoke to us about teaching children music and all things related to music in Grenada from her perspective as a teacher. Lauren was so kind and warm and interestingly enough she was of Indian descent. She had some insight on what it was like living in Grenada as an Indian and trying to preserve the Indian culture that has been lost. She also taught us a few Grenadian folk songs which I never get tired of hearing. I love having the opportunity to sing some more; I really never practice singing like I used to. There was a song that she taught us, something along the lines of “Oy oy oy oy oy xelia” etc that now we are all addicted to singing everywhere we go.

After Lauren left my fieldwork group had set up our first interview with Krumah who is the head Tivoli drummer and CEO of the Foundation of Culture here in Grenada. Our group had met beforehand to try to plan everything out like we had learned in class. We aren’t exactly sure on our research topic yet so we used Krumah as a good place to start exploring areas associated with instrumental music in Grenada.

From Krumah’s session I learned a few things. One thing that I learned was that the dance that we did the other night, the one that was sexual where everyone had to go in the middle and dance sexual, is called pique. It is a dance that is done at a funeral at night when all of the kids go to bed (because it is not appropriate for them). Everyone performs a dance move that simulates a sex move to symbolize that with death comes birth and thus the cycle of life continues…ha. I also learned that Krumah and the Tivoli drummers were initially very hesitant at first to have us come and work with them. He got very passionate when he went to discuss how the musicians in Grenada will never get credit for their music, especially if someone comes and steals their material. It is a complicated and expensive process for Grenadians to get music patented, so people from wealthier nations will historically come to the island to steal music and bring it back to make their own profit. I was so shocked and sad to hear this, especially since we were warned a little by Dr. B beforehand that we might experience resistance by people because of this assumption. The realization made me even more happy and appreciative that the Tivoli drummers did agree to help us learn drumming and welcomed us into their practice space for collaboration. Another thing I learned after the interview was that most people on the island have nicknames. I have actually noticed this informally when a lot of people have tried to call me “Lynn” which almost never happens. Almost no one in Grenada goes by their real names which I find to be pretty interesting.

After our interview we made our way to town to catch the buses for our last Tivoli drumming session. It was a little sad to know that this would be the last time I would get to experience drumming with the people that we have gotten to know over the past four days. We started off by grabbing drums and relearning some of the rhythms that were taught to us on Monday. We learned a few new beats after that and then we switched to gathering in a circle to do folk songs and dances. Once again we experienced pique (this time I did not get picked luckily), but we learned a lot of new dances including “cutting the wood” (most of which were sexual in some way…). We did a variety of different dances and even did limbo or what they call “fire” and stick fighting. We even had the pleasure of hearing Dr. B play the clarinet!! By the end of the session we were all exhausted but so sad to have to say goodbye. The drummers brought some fruit for us including passion fruit, tiny apples, and bananas to feast on as we sat around and said our final thank yous.

Now off to do homework for the night. Unfortunately this trip isn’t all just fun!

Tivoli Drumming Lessons

I can’t even believe that I have enough to write a completely new blog today, but again so much as happened. I don’t think I have ever done this many things in this short amount of time ever in my life. Today I woke up early and cooked some breakfast for whoever wanted it. I've had a difficult time finding ingredients for foods that I would normally cook, so it’s been kind of a fun and creative challenge to cook here. Then we had our first morning class session at 9am.

Today’s lesson focused around the four areas of organology (the scientific study of musical instruments). I learned a lot about the various subcategories including aerophones, cordophones, etc. I can already say that my music vocabulary has started to expand since being here. Just being able to use the word “beat” or “rhythm” in a sentence correctly feels like a huge accomplishment. I really feel as if I am actually immersed into the music culture here learning how to dance, sing, and play instruments.

For lunch I cooked up some pasta sauce to share with again anyone who wanted it. It feels so good to have some time to cook again. Then after lunch we had our host Urias come to our classroom and teach us about history of Grenada and folk stories. He brought his daughter and the two of them sang for everyone traditional songs that had some connection to Grenadian history (involving slaves, loneliness, etc). Their voices were so beautiful. It surprised me when I realized that great artists exist in this world like Urias and his daughter that are not interested in fame. They sing just to sing and have their people’s stories heard and kept alive for others to hear. They were also interested in teaching us Grenada’s history including all of the invasions and the history of the island. I can already see the significance of understanding the country’s history because it is such an integral part of their modern dance and song. So much music has African roots to it coming from the slaves brought from Africa. Without understanding the context of the slave songs, we will never truly be able to interpret the music.  

Urias also is a playwright who shared one of his latest stories with Chris and I. We each had to read a few lines from the beginning of the play which he has still not completed. He showed us how he would integrate local colloquial language into the dialogue to make it sound authentic, and Chris and I both got an inside peak into how he goes about writing his plays. He even asked our opinion about how we think the play should end. It was really interesting to see his creative mind at work.

After Urias finished we had a few hours free time. We all finally rested a bit but then a few of us decided to go into town. The weather was beautiful today, cloudy with a nice ocean breeze as we walked ten minutes to Grenville’s center for some food. Since we loved the food at one restaurant the first time around, we decided to go back to the Melting Pot restaurant. When we finished, Nathan and I went on a little adventure around the center to find some of Grenada’s famous “Water’s Rum,” known to be the strongest rum which will magically give you no hangover (in order to celebrate Chris’ 21^st birthday). We met this guy named Fish who led us to this tiny place that song the liquor. While Nathan talked to the lady at the counter, I talked awhile with one customer. She was a very sweet woman with a warm smile who was curious about our visit to Grenada. She went on and on about how Grenada is the best place to live in the whole world with the friendliest people (which I believe). She told me how no one has a lot of money, but they know how to have fun. It makes me think about life back in America. Here the simplest things make people so happy and it is such a joy to see. It also makes me realize how we take things for granted. A lot of times it’s as if we need to have money to do things that make us happy, but here it’s just the presence of friends, family, and music that satisfy a person’s quest for happiness.

Our next adventure was to take a taxi to the Tivoli drummers. We were told that they move around quite often, so it was a mystery in itself where we were being taken. Once we arrived, the location was in a very rural area with narrow roads. There were about five drummers who instructed us to sit down. We were given a brief history of the Tivoli drummers and the music that they produce. I thought it was really interesting that they practice and perfect their craft by doing spontaneous and freestyle sessions. They will go out into the streets and perform to the rhythm of the day, which I find to be so fascinating.

After the short history lesson, we were then allowed to take a drum and sit in the circle. The head drummer told us that in order to have the privilege to play the drums, we had to give a solid effort to internalize the music and feel the beat within us. We had to feel it from the inside in order to translate it to our hands and motions. At first we learned a few basic rhythms, like the heartbeat. We played these for awhile in order to get used to the instruments (which actually really hurt your hands). Then, towards the end of the three hour session we were given the opportunity to free style. It was so amazing what happened. He would have one person start and then each of us would just make up whatever beats that we wanted to join in. All of us would be playing to create music. I had a blast. I’ve always wanted to try to play drums and I loved how they gave us the freedom to listen to the beats and input in our own creative way. Towards the end we were all so into it that there were multiple breakout, spontaneous performances by people in our group. We were all so sad to have to leave the session, but we had to pile into the back of the bus to head back.

Experiencing Grenada

Where to even begin! So much has happened since my last blog post yesterday to this point tonight. Last night half of the group decided that we wanted to go out and experience some Grenadian night life, so Mac (Police Superintendent) hooked us up with a ride to a local reggae concert. The place that we are staying right now is not very central to anywhere, so it was crucial that he provided transportation as well as a local connection. Mac picked us up at our hotel and we all piled in to his car (and by piled in, I mean four people squeezed in the back seat with a person laying across). I found it pretty comical that one of the head police officers was jamming our car full of people without even thinking twice, but it just goes to show how things are just that much different.

We arrived at the concert and Mac helped us get cheap tickets and got us right to the front of the line based on who he knew there. I could tell immediately that this island really is small; it’s all about who you know. We had only been there one day and we had people come up to us and say hello because we had met them elsewhere already. The concert was completely different than I would have expected. We walked down passed the seating area and onto the lawn right in front of the stage. We were so close and the lawn was perfectly spread of people so that everyone had enough room to move.

The first artist was a reggae musician whom Mac told me was a former police officer. It took a few minutes, but all of us quickly got into the atmosphere of the arena. It was unlike anything that I’ve experienced at a concert before; everyone was vibing with the music and the artist was preaching peace, love, and respect. In between artists there was even an MC who kept the crowd going. He would play songs and make everyone in the crowd dance, keeping the whole experience lively and exciting! We never stopped dancing the whole entire time and we had the time of our lives. Everything just felt so peaceful and it was a beautiful night out. I definitely think that I have a new appreciation for reggae music now that I know how people can really experience it, live it, and vibe with it. All of the artists were local, too, constantly shouting out to people in the crowd and demonstrating how small and connected the whole island really is.

Today was an even greater adventure, although I thought it would be impossible to top the amazing experience that I had yesterday. I’m beginning to see that this trip will be so much more than I could have ever dreamed, and I am so thankful I chose to do it. We started off the day by loading into a van and traveling to the Belmont Estate. Along the way I got to see a lot more of the country and am still under the impression that it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever experienced. I have been to the Caribbean before, but I have never experienced island life quite like this. Everyone waved to us and seemed so inviting, yet very curious. A lot of people want to know what we are doing on the island, and I think we are really trying to establish that we aren’t just tourists looking to get in quick and leave. The country was so beautiful with lush trees and the air is so pure and unpolluted. It really makes me stop to think about how we live sometimes in the US, so close together and in our own lives.

Once we arrived at the estate (comparable to a plantation) we learned that it used to employee many slaves to help grow and cultivate cocoa. We were shown one of the main trees with the slave bell which rung when a slave was to be hanged on the tree as punishment. It is so awful to think that things like that really happened. But, today the plant is still up and running producing some of the finest chocolate in the world, regardless of its history.

We were show the whole process of producing the chocolate, from chopping down the fruit, to fermenting and drying the beans, etc. It is such an elaborate process. Our tour guide, Lauren, let us try the beans before they get made into chocolate (very gross) as well as the seeds of the fruit when it is first picked off the tree (so sweet and delicious). Then we got to sample some of the chocolate ourselves which was absolutely amazing. We were then led around the estate to visit some of the animals, like monkeys and parrots. The parrot was probably my favorite because it actually was saying and repeating phrases that we were saying (something I’ve never seen before in my life). As I was walking around I was just breathing in the fresh air and closing my eyes to appreciate the opportunity to be in such an incredible place.

After the estate we traveled a bit down the road to see the slave pens where the slaves would live who were working on the estate. I think we were all a little unprepared for the hike that it required to even see the pens. We had to travel through high grasses, and a lot of us had flip flops and shorts on including me. I got bit really hard by something in the grass and had shooting pains for awhile and the pens themselves just did not interest me, so that part of the day wasn’t the greatest for me. But I did think it was really neat how anyone that wanted a mango could pick them off the trees at any point. There were really so many opportunities to eat mangos whenever we wanted, as well as other fruits like bananas, etc.

Then we traveled to Leaper’s Hill. Leaper’s Hill was known as the spot where the last standing Caribs decided to commit mass suicide by jumping off the cliff in order to avoid surrendering to the French. Peering down over the edge I couldn’t imagine choosing to end my life in that way, but I did think it was pretty noble of the Caribs to try to maintain some dignity in their deaths. Besides the sort of morbid history of the place, it was a beautiful view from the top. In the picture you can see my roommate Karla and I at the very top.

After Leaper’s Hill we finally made our way to the beach for the traditional “oil down.” We met up with the Tivoli drummers as well as many members of the community who were connected to the families. We spent some time mingling with locals and helping them prepare the dinner. A lot of them were really shy to talk to us, especially the younger ones. But, I think they were all very curious by our group. It seems that many of them were content with just sitting and “being,” living life. I realized that I didn’t always need to try to talk to them about something, as long as we were just coexisting near one another and sharing that space. It was a really cool and interesting experience. I talked to one girl in particular who was very outgoing, talking about how she teaches primary school children. I thought it was incredible that the children here are required to learn three languages! I still can’t believe that Americans only learn English when the rest of the world is really making an effort to be global.

While we were waiting for dinner to cook we went to the beach for a bit, and I got to dip my toes into the water. The water in Grenada is just so warm and the sand is free of debris, easy to walk around in. I laid on a chair for awhile, again breathing in sweet smell of the island and appreciating my time on the island. Once dinner was ready, it was delicious. There were so many people that they were feeding, but we each got a generous helping of things like chicken, curried bananas, bread fruit, and dumplings. The food again was extremely spiced and on top of that delicious. As it started to get dark we kept the bonfire going and we continued to mingle and enjoy the company of one another.

Thinking that the dinner would be the end of my night, I was shocked when the head Tivoli drummer summoned everyone to the arena across the street. At this point they started to play some drums and people from around the area came to join in. He had us stand in a circle, and told us that we were going to be experiencing a few local traditional games. I was so unsure what to expect, but before I knew it the sun was setting and there was a chorus of drums playing a beat. I would say there were close to 60-70 people at this time that either participated or watched as every single one of us was pulled one by one into the center to dance.

The first dance we had to do was to teach the rest of the group a dance move. I can’t even begin to tell you how embarrassed I was when it came time for me to go. I have never danced in front of other people before and the locals that were dancing were incredible. I was pretty proud of the move that I thought up while I was waiting for my turn, but then it just got even more difficult. The second dance was a slower rhythm, a tradition that they would do when someone died. I was shocked when I saw someone demonstrate..they were getting down low!! From my understanding it was supposed to be some sort of sexual dance, and I was completely terrified. At this point more and more people joined to watch what was going on and one by one people were getting in the middle and moving in ways that were sexual and impressive. I was mortified when I had to get in front of everyone and I tried to pathetically move my hips. I do give myself an A for effort, but it was pretty painful even for me. I was so amazed by how the locals could move, though. They were so fluid in their motions, and they moved so well with the beat. The third dance we had to do was supposed to be our final move to leave with the crowd, which again I probably made a fool of myself. I did just enjoy watching everyone else though; one girl jumped up and landed in a split, almost giving me a heart attack. Most of the Grenadian people are on such a different level when it comes to dancing I can’t even begin to imagine getting close to that.

Another long, exhausting, rewarding day. Thanks for reading!