Saturday, June 2, 2012
Wednesday, May 30, 2012
One Love
Monday was a holiday in Grenada (Whit Monday) which meant
that everything was closed down and there was nothing to do. So, most of the
day was spent relaxing which was a nice break. But, yesterday was the first day
of our steel pan lessons! If you don’t know what a steel pan is, think of the
theme song of The Little Mermaid. It is the instrument that sounds very “Caribbean”
in the background of many songs. I had never really picked up on the sound of
that instrument until I heard it for the first time, but you can’t help but
associate it with Caribbean islands.
We traveled as a group to downtown St. Georges at 10am and
arrived at the steel pan yard to receive lessons from David Edwards. Right away
he started to explain some of the basics of steel pans to us. One of the first
things that we learned was that steel pans require knowledge of music so we
would be learning how to read music and translate it to songs on the drum. From
that I realized that it would be a little different than when we learned the
hand drums from the Tivoli drummers, because with those we started playing
right away. With the Tivoli drummers it was more about feeling the rhythm inside
of you and playing what you feel, but with the steel pans we would need to
learn notes and proper form. Mr. Edwards taught us how to “play” the drums
instead of “beating” the drums, as he put it. It wasn’t about how loud we could
bang the mallets against the steel but rather about playing it correctly with
our wrists as our guides. We had to do wrist exercises to help warm up and
strengthen our wrists before we began. Then we practiced holding the sticks and
“rolling” different notes or “picking” them (two different techniques that
required either strumming the note with both hands back and forth or just
playing the note once with one hand).
I decided to try the double tenor since the single tenor
already had six people on it. It was only Asia and I on the double tenor, and I
was ready for the challenge of two drums. It proved to be very difficult too!
Our first lesson was to learn how to play the C scale with all natural notes (i.e.,
no flat or sharp notes). It was so much harder trying to go from one pan to the
next quickly while also learning how to tap my foot. A lot of us were
struggling to multi-task between the two, but eventually by the end we could
play the scale at a really fast tempo. I felt very accomplished by the end of
the two hour session when I could play quickly without even looking. At one
point he had us close our eyes and play without looking, and I was able to pass
the test.
Something that I noticed while playing was that the
Grenadian people are not shy to stop by and walk right into the steel pan
practice room to blatantly stare at us. I saw a lot of confused faces by people
who would peer inside and just take pictures of us. And of course I was the
first person next to the door, so now I am in a lot of pictures playing my drum.
So, although we are not looked at as completely alien people like we were in
Grenville, it must still be a completely strange site to see American students
learning how to play the steel pans.
After the session yesterday, a few people from the group and
I decided to do some shopping. While we thought that the shopping would be
really cheap on the island, like everything else has been, we were completely
wrong. We couldn’t find shirts or dresses for less than 95 EC (or $40
American), and everyone was trying to rip us off because they saw us as
tourists. We were right in the area where most of the cruise ships dock when
they come to Grenada, so we were just lumped together with all of the other
Americans that come to the island for vacation. It was a little disappointing
for awhile until we found the local market and a really nice souvenir shop. One
man came up to Maggie, Drew, and I and was trying to sell us necklaces and
other jewelry. He showed us this necklace that he was known for which had lots
of spices and herbs on it. It basically smelled like Christmas. His whole pitch
was just ridiculous, because it was one of the ugliest things I’ve ever seen,
but he was trying to make it sound like I would want to wear it around. He said
if I bought it from him and wore it I would be known as the Spice Girl. The guy
was just trying so hard to sell it to me that eventually I caved in and just
bought it because it was just so ridiculous. So, now I have a necklace with
spices that I will never wear, but at least it smells good.
At the very end of the session, Mr. Edwards surprised us by
asking what song we wanted to learn how to play. We all came to the consensus
that we wanted to learn how to play “One Love” by Bob Marley. He went around to
each drum teaching them different parts of the song. Each drum wouldn’t be
playing the same notes. We were taught different things that all together would
sound like the song. Once Asia and I started learning our parts I realized why
it was so important to learn the scales and know where all the notes were, because
it made for a faster learning curve and increased understanding of what was
going on. Once we finally got to play as a group, it sounded so great! We did
so well and Mr. Edwards even jumped on the real drum set and started jamming
out to the song. It was a great learning experience and I really look forward
to the next few days as we attempt harder compositions.
After the lesson, Kassie and I went to another library (The University of the West Indes' Open Campus Library) and
attempted to research more information on our topic. With no success, we have
come to the realization that there really are little to no written records of
drumming culture in Grenada. It is exciting to think that we will be one of the
first ever groups to record information that we find out about the drums as an
instrument that influences culture. It just goes to show how important our work
actually is and puts some value on the project we are doing. We have already
encountered people who are thankful that we have come to their island to
finally document and record their cultural history.
Sunday, May 27, 2012
Dirty Dancing
Thinking about yesterday makes me actually laugh; it was a
very ridiculous day. All that we were told was that we had to meet at 11am to
visit dance master David Thomas in Gouyave. So, like every other person we’ve
met, I assumed he would be talking about dance in Grenada, we would ask him
questions, etc etc. Never in the description for the day was anyone told that
any physical dancing would be taking place. So, I wore a nice light and airy
short sundress ready to face the hot and humid day ahead. Little did I know I
would soon regret that decision enormously.
We met Urias at our apartments and he took us into the
center of St. Georges where all of the nice shopping is and the bus depot. I
loved the downtown area! It was so alive and busy with people, more of a city
feel that I would expect. I was pretty interested in the street vendors who
would put up pictures of movie covers. A lot more people than I expected would
stop to choose which movie they wanted to buy. It reminded me almost of the black
market in America but more exposed. It made me wonder if there are actually places
in Grenada for the people to buy movies or if they relied on these street
vendors. I was also shocked to hear that one of the buildings downtown which
looked destroyed actually stood as remains of Hurricane Ivan all the way back
in 2004. We have been hearing a lot about the destruction that the Hurricane
caused, and it is so sad to imagine what it must have been like. Urias’
daughter, Z, told us how she was in Miami at the time of the Hurricane and came
back to see the island just destroyed. It must have been devastating. They didn’t
have school or power for weeks. She was explaining how she never appreciated
things like ice so much in her life, because they were living without power or
AC for such a long period of time. Just seeing the building still standing
untouched was very eerie and sad.
After spending time downtown we caught a bus to go to
Gouyave. I didn’t know it at the time but the town is actually all the way up
in the northern parish of St. John. The bus ride took a very long time, winding
along roads that were on cliffs overlooking the ocean. It was a beautiful and
lengthy drive which eventually led us to a tiny town very similar to Grenville.
It had a small feel to it that we have grown accustomed to in the country. We
turned down a small neighborhood street and then Mr. Thomas led us around the
back of a house where we saw the sign for the “Spices Dance Company.” Right
when I saw this sign, I got a bad feeling. We walked inside right into the
middle of a small dance studio with large wall mirrors and ballet bar. Mr.
Thomas introduced his studio and one of his senior dancers who was to lead the
session. Then, he slowly moved to the side and let her speak.
By the end of the session we were all exhausted, sweaty, and
ready to go home. None of us woke up yesterday thinking that our day would be
filled with intense dancing, so to think that we ended up doing all of that
makes it all too funny to think about. Once we got back, there was no energy
left for anything else. Many of our nights were spent relaxing back at the
apartments and going to bed early.
Today was another beach day since we had the day off from
work. Maggie, Karla, and I headed to the beach and enjoyed another sunny day.
At one point Maggie and I decided to walk all the way down the beach to the
other side just for fun. What we didn’t realize is that we must have walked
into the area of the beach where all of the locals hung out, because we once
again stood out. We could feel everyone’s eyes on us, watching and trying to
figure out what we were doing. One guy showed us the spice and craft booths
that were set up for the cruise ships that will be coming to the island in two
months. Only one of them had their crafts set up, and he showed us his
necklaces and jewelry. Maggie and I were really impressed when he was
explaining each one how he made them by hand with remnants from Hurricane Ivan,
etc. Ironically, when we went back to our chairs to get money to buy some
another guy came over to try to sell necklaces to us that looked exactly the
same. He was saying how he made his own himself, etc. There was no connection
between the two men. Luckily we didn’t get scammed by the first guy into buying
a necklace that he clearly didn’t make himself if another random guy had the
same exact ones.
Another observation that we made was that the children that
we met while swimming are very similar to how we were as American children. The
Grenadian children were so friendly and started playing games with us. Maggie
and I were both talking about how the games resembled things that we would make
up when we were younger, which made us laugh at the similarities and imaginations
of children all around the world. The water felt so nice today, like swimming in
a hot tub. I never wanted to get out.
Now that we’re back we can have some more time to relax and
work on our group proposal a little more. Our group has decided to focus our
research on drumming’s influence on Grenadian culture in the 21st
century, which is so exciting to finally say since we’ve been going back and
forth so much. Over the never week we will be conducting a few more interviews
then finally getting to the point where we can write our final papers. Only two
more weeks on this beautiful island; it makes me so sad to think about leaving.
Friday, May 25, 2012
Black Wizard
We saw things like the gym, restaurant, student center, etc
that we can use. We also have access to the free bus system with our IDs that
we received, which will be very convenient for when we want to go into
different parts of town. We got to see the room where our final presentations
will take place and then we sat down to talk to Wendy about a few things. She
told us again about the history of Grenada and also about different cultural
traditions. She discussed “island time” where relationships are more valuable
than money. Grenadians are never in a hurry and always will stop to talk to
someone even if they are running late. It’s funny because I experienced that in
Italy but definitely not to the extent that it happens here. I even find myself
just being so laid back about the time which would never happen in America. I
always know what time it is back home, so to have no concept of time is a very
bizarre and new feeling.
After our tour to SGU (St. Georges University), a few people
took the free bus to go to the supermarket to stock up on food in an attempt to
save money. It felt good to buy things like chicken and pasta so that I can
start to cook my own meals again. The prices here are very expensive, maybe
even more than back home, but I figured it would be cheaper to try to make food
rather than eat out all the time. When we tried to catch a cab back, we noticed
that the cab drivers were really trying to rip us off and charge us absurd
amounts to go five seconds down the road. I really do feel like people will try
to take advantage of us here in St. Georges just because it is so touristy and
they assume we have a lot of money. I’ve already experienced it a few times and
I already don’t like how rude some people are here; it’s very disheartening.
We unloaded our groceries and relaxed for a bit, working on
some homework, etc. Then we all had to meet before traveling to the “Black
Wizard.” At this point in our trip I never really have any clue what is going
on because the schedule is constantly changing, so again I started walking with
the group to see this “wizard” without a clue of what to expect. We didn’t have
to walk too far before we were all invited into a small, hot room with tiny
chairs and a small chalkboard in the front. In the front of the room stood a
tall black man who looked older by his graying hair but youthful in spirit. He
welcomed us into his classroom and introduced himself as the Black Wizard, or
master calypsonian on the island.
Black Wizard gave us some history of calypso music,
including how the word came about from a mix of French words. I learned that
soca music is more of a contemporary, more upbeat version of calypso that many
young Grenadians like better because of the faster rhythm. But he also
reinforced the various tricks that calypsonians would use in their music. It is
not okay to publically sing songs that went against the government, so calypso
music would be full of “double entendras” or double meanings. They had to be
masters of creativity and language to devise phrases that were clever and had
meanings that subtly commented on political issues. Calypso music is also very
strongly tied to Carnivale, because that is when the country expects to hear
all of the new calypso songs premiere. So, around the end of August, there will
be multiple new calypso songs to add to Grenada’s collection. Black Wizard, who
has won Grenada’s calypso competition many years, even sang a few of his own
songs, which was really impressive to watch. He sang for us while school
children ran around outside the window, and I felt like I was actually in a
neighborhood for the first time since being in St. Georges.
The session ended and as we were walking back it started to
pour so we ran through the rain to our apartments.
Today was one of my favorite days while being in Grenada so
far. We actually had nothing at all planned for the day, so Karla and I slept
in late and then met up with everyone to go to the beach around noon. The
weather was absolutely perfectly sunny outside. The beach (Grand Anse) is only
a ten minute walk from our apartment and is known to be one of the prettiest
beaches in the Caribbean! It definitely lived up to those standards. We got
some chairs and laid out by the water, going in every once in awhile to cool
off when it got too warm. The sand was beautiful, soft with no rocks or any
debris, and the water was turquoise crystal clear and warm. There were barely
any other people on the beach too! This island as a whole is so unspoiled by
tourism that it’s actually refreshing. We were even right next to a resort, but
still no one was really by the water. It felt like we had the whole beach all
to ourselves.
After spending a few hours and starting my tan for the first
time, Karla and I got a bite to eat and then headed back to the apartment. Now
it’s just time to relax before we go out for the night. Happy weekend everyone!
Thanks for reading.
Wednesday, May 23, 2012
Saint George's!
Yesterday was not too exciting, just a combination of our
last real day of classes and packing to leave Grenville for good. We took the
time to say our last reflections about our time in Grenville, which was a
little sad. I talked about the woman that I had met one day downtown who was so
happy and was telling me about what she likes to do for fun. She was talking
about how Grenadians don’t have much money but they know how to have fun. She
loved to spend time with her family and do things like go to the beach or just
have huge oil-down dinners. It really made me reflect on us as Americans. We
are a culture that needs material things and a surplus of objects and wealth in
order to be satisfied. Happiness should come from those around you who love
you. It was a very eye-opening lesson in an unexpected place.
Today we woke up and brought our bags downstairs to finally
say goodbye to Rainbow Inn, Grenville, to depart towards the big city (St.
Georges). The thought alone of leaving behind our AC-less, mosquito-infested
room was motivation enough for me to want to run out of there. We said goodbye
to all of the Inn staff that we had grown close with over our stay there and we
hopped into the van. Like we had done many times before, we drove through the
rain forest in order to get to St. Georges, which was an adventure in itself.
The drive is around 45 minutes and the roads are extremely narrow without
lines. I swear I thought that we were going to crash a few times, but somehow
we made it in one piece. Along the way we stopped at a lake at the top of one
of the highest mountains in Grenada. It was a volcanic lake, and our bus driver
explained how Grenada was a volcanic island with only one active volcano left.
The lake was kind of eerie since the fog was rolling in, so we only got a
chance to admire it for a little while before another downpour started.
As we got into St. Georges we made a stop at the Spice
Basket restaurant which we had visited our first night in Grenada. Ironically,
though, we weren’t there to dance or eat but rather to visit a museum that was
part of the same complex. We had a tour guide take us around and explain the
history of Grenada (which we’ve heard a few times at this point). I feel like I’m
an expert now. Basically the British and the French fought over the island for
awhile which is why there are so many French influences on the island, but
eventually the British took over for the majority of the history. Then, they
gained their independence in the 1970’s and there was a Revolution shortly
after followed by the American Invasion. Ever since the Revolution they have had
a parliamentary government in Grenada. The tour guide also showed us some old
artifacts from ancient Grenada and a lot of pictures of Grenada’s history with
the game of cricket. Because they were owned by Britain for so long, they have
a very strong, rich history with the game of cricket. I heard that during the
Revolution, the tough times led to more emphasis on work ethic, building
stronger and more athletic men. Because of this hard-working mentality, Grenada
had a very good cricket team for awhile during those times which directly
reflected the economy and hardships at the time.
We had Urias’ daughter, Z, take us to get some food nearby
(only a 5 minute walk). I already have been noticing a lot of differences
between Grenville and St. Georges. For one, there are actually street lights
and lines on the roads. It’s a lot busier and there is a ton of diversity. We
are no longer looked at as if we are specimens (one little girl yesterday
pointed to us and shouted to her mom, “Hey look white people!”). We actually
blend it pretty nicely here, which I’m not so sure I liked as much as I thought
I would. Everyone treats us as if we are just tourists who have a lot of money.
Another thing is that people are a little less friendly here. I tried saying
hello to a few people on the street today and they actually looked kind of
surprised and shy about it. It’s so different than what I got used to doing in
Grenville where everyone knew one another and was friendly. This is a city,
though, and there are lots of food places and things to do around the area
which makes it a little more fun. But there is already a part of me that misses
the country and the people who were so welcoming to us.
We went down to town one last time to get some food at the
Melting Pot and looked out at the ocean. We were told that things were going to
be more expensive in St. George’s so we enjoyed our last very cheap meal. Then
I headed back up to sleep one more time in the mosquito-fest which was my room.
Got a few new, fresh bites on my legs just as a parting gift I want to believe.
After the museum, we had planned to go visit a few forts but
it was pouring and everyone was pretty hungry so we checked into our hotel. In
the video you can see a little sneak peek of our room here. Karla and I are
very excited that we now have working AC and internet. There are definitely
less mosquitoes and the whole place is just cleaner (except for the four
spiders that we had Vlad kill behind my bed and one that crawled into bed with
me). A funny thing that also revolved around bugs was when we were running late
for our meeting at 2:30, I noticed a huge centipede in the middle of our floor.
When I went to look at it closer, it was dead so I left it there thinking I
could come back and clean it up afterwards. EXCEPT, when we got back an hour
later, it was GONE. We weren’t able to find it anywhere, so somewhere in our
room is a giant centipede that knows how to play dead. Lesson learned: Don’t
trust bugs.
One of the biggest things I’ve noticed about St. Georges is the prices. Everything here is so much more expensive. I got a great lunch but spent a lot of money, so tomorrow I need to make sure to go to the grocery store to get some food otherwise I will have no more money soon. After lunch we had some downtime so we took a nap and now I am just sitting on our porch watching the sun set over the beach. We’re right next to a main road so it’s a little loud, but the site is just beautiful of the water.
Monday, May 21, 2012
Hiking to Mt. Carmel Waterfall
After we enjoyed the waterfall for awhile, we hiked back up
to the van and got driven back. A few hours later we did have to meet back for
class. Today we discussed rapport, which is an interesting topic because it’s
something that is completely intangible sometimes. It’s not always an easy
formula to develop rapport with our potential interviewees and sometimes they
expect us to pay them when we don’t have money to. We haven’t encountered any
problems just yet but next once we get to St. George we will be in full research
mode. Some of these issues may really affect us and our research.
After class we got picked up again and traveled to a village
past Tivoli to see a Shortknee performance. Once we had seen the JabJab
performance, I was expecting another similar show where it would be in the
community and unofficial, and my assumptions were not off point. We drove again
to the middle of a local village and were dropped off in an area that seemed to
be in the middle of nowhere. Everyone in the nearby houses, including all the
children, were waiting for us, and we watched as a small clan of one Shortknee
group performed on the street. We were told that the Shortknee performers come
out during Carnivale, clad in bright outfits with long poofy sleeves and pants
that fall right below the knee (hence the name). They often sang songs that
would have something to do with current events or their African heritage. One
of the first they sang dealt with the current unhappiness with the prime
minister. We witnessed that ourselves when we walked into town yesterday and
saw a protest. Many people are unhappy with the current prime minister, and the
Shortknee took it upon themselves to make a song to address those feelings of
resentment. They were a really interesting group with a lot of energy.
Once the Shortknee performance ended we came back and had
some time for ourselves. Manni, Drew, and I decided to go down to town to get
some dinner (I am getting quite bored of the ramen and soup that I brought from
home). As we were walking down we decided to try to switch things up and try
out somewhere different. We found a little Chinese food place which looked
pretty decent, so we just went for it. Luckily the food was absolutely amazing.
It was also the first time we have encountered Asians in the Caribbean. We got
a kick out of the fact that we were at a Chinese restaurant in the Caribbean as
Americans. It was a pretty funny situation. But we had a great, delicious meal
with food none of us have eaten in awhile. On our way back we even felt
ambitious enough to stop for ice cream at another place, which wasn’t as
successful because the chocolate I ate tasted very strange. But we strolled back
saying “goodnight” to everyone we saw. It’s been weird getting used to saying
hello to everyone you pass on the street, but maybe even weirder is the fact
that people here say “goodnight” in the same way that we would say “good
evening.” Small culture things that I’m started to become accustomed to.
On that note, “goodnight” everyone and thanks for reading J
Sunday, May 20, 2012
Lazy Sunday
This weekend has been nice because we finally got some down
time. Yesterday morning we had a champion kaiso singer (known on the island as “Scholar”)
come in to talk about his work in Grenada. He began the session by discussing
how he became a singer, first starting by dancing with the Shortknees. From my
understanding Shortknee is a masquerade group that dresses up during
Carinavale. He brought the outfit for us to show how they dress up and dance
during the festival, which was very bright and had long poofy sleeves which
held weapons (for feuds). On Monday we are actually going to visit the
Shortknees so I’m sure I’ll have a better understanding of who they are once I
can actually see what they do. Then Scholar talked about some of the origins of
kaiso music and the modern influences, etc. He was really insightful and very
well-spoken, and he even agreed to let our group watch him record a song in the
studio sometime in the next few weeks!
Shortly after Scholar’s presentation we were picked up and
brought to river tubing. Almost everyone came and it was a lot different than
any of us had expected but a ton of fun. I assumed it would just kind of be
like a nice relaxing river ride where we would hit a few patches of rough
current. We each got our own tube and were placed in the river. Immediately we were
whisked away by the water and were brought through a few rapids. I was so
shocked! It was like one of those river rafting rides you would go on at
amusement parks but the real thing. The river wound through the rainforest and
the trip lasted about an hour. We had a few guides helping us out when we would
get stuck or making sure we got through the rough parts smoothly. It was also
up to us to help one another get un-stuck off of rocks and river banks, so the
trip served as kind of a team building experience as well.
At one point they had us all get off the tubes and swim over
to a large rock. We were allowed to climb up and jump off (15 feet) if we
wanted. At first I was so scared to do it so I just watched. Then I realized
that I might regret not jumping, so I got in line and made my way up the rocks.
In order to get to the point where we jumped I had to walk on a skinny ledge of
slippery rocks which was so terrifying. Then the guy told me to make sure not
to hit the rock jutting out from the one I was jumping off of on my way down,
which made me even more scared. But I just did it without thinking and it was
so much fun! I’m so glad I decided to try it because it was worth the nerves.
After river tubing we had a few hours of downtime and then a
few of us decided to go to this show we had heard of called Grenada’s Got
Talent. I thought that it would be similar to the reggae concert that we went
to the other night, but I couldn’t be more wrong. We made a huge effort to get
a taxi van to take us all the way to St. Georges (45 minute drive), and we had
to pay a bit of money to get in, only to find out that it was a sit down,
high-school like competition. None of us could believe we drove all that way
just to see a show that was pretty mediocre. I was trying to make the most of
it but at some points I was just bored out of my mind. And, the stage
production was terrible. At a few points they accidentally left someone’s
computer screen up as the background to the singers, which was horrifying.
There were a few really impressive acts, but overall I think we were disappointed
that we got our hopes up so much.
Today we have NOTHING planned for once. I can’t even believe
it. We’ve all just been so lazy, working on homework and blogs and things like
that. It’s been a great day where not a single thing has been planned (and I
don’t care in the least bit). Right now I’m sitting out on my porch watching
cars go by, looking out at the mountains, and listening to some reggae coming
from a nearby porch. Life is good.
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